Check that your chops are boneless center-cut loin. Leave the fat rim on and do not trim it. If you're starting from a whole loin roast instead, firm it in the freezer for 30 to 45 minutes and cut across the grain into slices about ⅝ inch thick.

Cover a chop with plastic wrap. Using the flat face of the pounder, bring it down flat and slide it from the center outward in one continuous motion, working around the chop until it reaches an even thickness just under ¼ inch. Do not hammer straight down in one place and do not use the spiked face. You are stretching the meat thinner, not crushing it.

Whisk the soy sauce, bouillon powder, black pepper, table salt, and potato starch together in a small bowl, then pour it over the chops. Massage by hand until every surface is coated and no dry starch is visible. It should look like a thin paste on the meat, not like damp sand and not like a bath the meat swims in.

Stack the chops in a container or press them into a zip-top bag with the air pushed out. Refrigerate 4 to 6 hours or overnight. Within an hour or two a thin layer of liquid pools at the bottom, which is exactly what should happen. Turn the chops once during the rest so the starch stays distributed.

Rinse the rice under running water until the water runs mostly clear. Medium grain rice is very starchy, and that loose starch is what makes the grains clump together in the wok.

Cook the rinsed rice at a 1:1 to 1.1:1 water to rice ratio. In a rice cooker, use the harder setting if yours has one, or slightly less water than usual if it doesn't. Every restaurant kitchen steams its rice in a commercial cooker, and this is the home version of the same thing. If you don't own one, the stovetop steaming method is in the Notes below.

Spread the cooked rice on a baking sheet and fan it for 20 to 30 minutes until it reaches room temperature, turning it over every few minutes so moisture doesn't pool underneath. You're drying the surface of each grain while the inside stays chewy. Warm or room temperature only, never cold.

Heat the oil in a wok to 350°F (177°C) and give it a few minutes to stabilize before the first chop goes in. Pull the chops from the fridge. The marinade will have set into a thin paste on the meat with a little liquid pooled underneath.

Lower in one chop at a time and leave it alone until the surface sets. It will look almost bare going in, because there is no dredge on it. All the browning comes from the soy sauce.

Fry about 4 to 6 minutes total, turning once when the edges start to brown. Go by color, not by thermometer. At this thickness a probe is awkward, and the target is 145°F (63°C) if you want to confirm.

Pull it slightly lighter than you want it to end up, since the coating keeps darkening after it leaves the oil. Let the excess drip off, then drain on a wire rack, never on paper and never covered. Let the oil come back to 350°F between chops.

Heat a dry wok over high heat until it just starts to smoke. Turn off the heat, add 2 tablespoons of oil, and swirl to coat. This is long yao, and the cool oil hitting hot metal creates a thin layer that keeps the eggs and rice from sticking.

Turn the heat back to medium and crack in 2 unbeaten eggs. Let them set for a second, break the yolks with your spatula, and scramble to about 60 to 70 percent done with soft yellow curds. Leaving them unbeaten is the point, since you want loose yolk coating the grains rather than one uniform color.

Add 1 ¼ cups of the cooled rice while the eggs are still wet. Switch to a small silicone spatula and use a cutting motion to separate the grains, then toss to coat everything in the egg and oil. Keep it moving constantly and drop the heat if you see any browning. This is the technique called Silver over Gold.

Sprinkle the House Seasoning over the rice and work it in until no dry seasoning is visible and the grains look glossy and separated. Add the green onion, toss thoroughly, and turn off the heat. Taste and adjust with extra bouillon, salt, or MSG.

Cook 1 to 2 servings per batch. Any more than that in the wok at once and the rice steams instead of frying, and you end up with soggy grains instead of separated ones. If you're cooking for more people, run the rice through in batches this size.

Pack the rice into a bowl and press it down flat with the back of a spoon. Set a plate over the mouth of the bowl, invert the two together, and lift the bowl straight up. The rice holds the shape of the bowl.

Cut each chop across into five or six even strips and crack fresh black pepper over them. Lay the slices across the top of the rice in an ordered row. Do not stir them through.